Journal 9-21-2010

Journal 9-21-2010

Today we left ICSA and began the rest of the trip. We got up around 6:15am when Pownraj (possibly spelled wrong) called to tell us that our room and board expenses would be 4,800 rupees. This kind of sucked, we (the dudes) were under the impression that St. Olaf had already covered all of our expenses for ICSA. So we were a little bit sad to have to shell out about 100$. But it is actually pretty cheap for 24 days of room and board.

We left ICSA with our huge backpacks and hopped into a couple rickshaws and headed for the central train station. The mood was tense as Matt and Leah tried to buy tickets and figure out which train to board. We initially got on the right train, but then an announcement of a train change came on over the loudspeaker. We waded and pushed through a river of people to board the train that had just arrived.

The train ride took about 45 minutes, and with the help of some people sitting next to us we found the correct stop, which was spelled differently than the stop listed on the directions in the St. Olaf Packet.

As soon as we stepped off the train we were met by a man who said “I am with CCOORR” (Christian Council for Rural Development and Research) not sure where they got those letters. I barely caught what he said, then I realized that he was there to pick us up. I yelled at everyone else and we followed the man across all the tracks and behind some buildings where a Tourist bus was waiting. The bus had a cloth-covered roof, two TV screens, and absurdly loud sound system and some flashing neon lights that encircled some metallic Hindu gods. After a short drive we arrived at CCOORR, where we met Amalan who will be our guide for the next couple of days. We had some tea and biscuits then Amalan gave us a quick introduction to CCOORR. According to Amalan’s rules we aren’t allowed to go outside the building by ourselves (which is kind of ridiculous).

After our introduction to CCOORR we hopped back on our fancy tourist bus and went off to start seeing different parts of the Alaehur village (pop. 4000). Our first stop was a local community center type of place. The center also functions as a vocational school and an orphanage. Here we were given an amazing traditional welcome. A woman burned some small white balls sitting on a floating leaf in a shallow pool of red liquid that filled the bottom of a silver pan. She made us gather around her so that the smoke floated around us. Then she dipped her fingers in the red liquid and dabbed it on our foreheads. The boys were then givien a red sandalwood dot between the eyes and a flower necklace. While the girls were given red dots, yellow sandalwood dabs on the forehead, yellow sandalwood marks on their arms, red and gold plastic bangles and a flower necklace.

This was by far the warmest welcome we have received so far. We briefly went into the center where Amalan explained the function of the Community center, which is called “People Helping People” or something along those lines, when translated to English. Two of the female staff members and a man, who I believe is the director of People Helping People, accompanied us for the rest of the day. Which was filled with different stops around the village.

Our first stop was a government ration shop. We have been told before that we shouldn’t even try to visit one because we would be immediately turned away. This did not happen. When we got to the ration shop there was a huge line of women outside waiting to buy grain, oil and other essentials. The line parted for us and we were ushered inside of the tiny ration shop. Inside there were three or four men working. One was collecting money and issuing receipts while another was weighing out different types of grain and pouring them into the bags held by the customers.

The women in the front liked us but the people stuck in the back of the line were getting annoyed that we were slowing down the process of buying grain from the government ration shop. Matt was able to ask a ton of questions that will help him with his food project. He was also able to find out the prices of various products and get information about the number of ration cards given out in the community. This was a great place to have access to!

After the government ration shop we went to see a library and a day care center. The library was a small dark two room building that had several shelves full of paperback books written in Tamil.

At the Day care center we met the first batch or excited kids of the day. They loved john’s hair and enjoyed getting their pictures taken.  after the Daycare center, we went to a project site that is the result of another government “scheme” (program) to provide work for families who live under the poverty line. This particular project involved digging a in the side of a lake / pond in an effort to increase the capacity of the lake. The employees of this project are all women. And they earn a maximum of 100 rupees per day (about $2). This income does really benefit their families and often means the difference between eating and going hungry. The level of poverty in this village is not severe. Because of the various different government “schemes” almost everyone is able to have a home, clothes, enough to eat and a variety of other amenities like a TV.

As we left the worksite the women were beginning to go take their lunch break. We went back to CCOORR and took our lunch break as well. Lunch was delicious. We had vegetable rice and curd rice (which is a lot like cottage cheese). 

After Lunch we went to see a government funded primary school where we learned about the school system in India. Some of the older kids were busy taking exams so we went to a classroom full of younger kids who were learning to read and write in Tamil.

Kids are always excited to see us, mostly because they are fascinated by John’s hair.

After our trip to the school we went to a government building where we meet the Pancheyita (elected village leader) and the block development officer. It was super hot in this room, and the power was out so we didn’t have a fan. To make things worse we were served hot coffee and biscuits. I was drenched in sweat by the time the meeting was over. But we learned a lot about the structure and function of local government.

After the government stop, our journey continued to the home of a holy woman who claims to become possessed by the spirit of the wife of Shiva (a Hindu deity). While she is possessed by this goddess she claims to be able to cure diseases, cure infertility, aid marriages and do other amazing things. While we were in her home / temple area we were swarmed by probably 25 kids and a couple teenagers. It was almost impossible to play attention to what Amalan was trying to say. He was even trying to yell to be heard over the constant English phrase “what is your name?”

When we left this house, we went to go see a government subsidized concrete house and bathroom. The kids followed us, held our hands and pointed to everything they saw saying “what is your name?” they were trying to ask “what is this called?”

Then we went down the street to the house of a large family. In this house/compound the families of two brothers and three sisters live together. While we were here it seemed like all the children in the village came to see us and ask “what is your name?” hahaha it was a hilarious and extremely entertaining experience.

We finally made it back after an extremely eventful day. As soon as we got back I started to write this. Then we had coffee, and talked about plans for travel break. Then I kept on writing. Then we went to go eat dinner.

Dinner was delicious; we ate chicken in  gravy and sambar dal with chapattis and vegetables. So far the food at CCOORR has been way better than the food at ICSA.

Tomorrow we are going to go work in a paddy field. I am excited, but a little bit paranoid about getting hook worms or other parasites in my feet.